Well, The Loom Is All Set-up
I spent a good part of Saturday setting up the loom, I am so proud of myself, it was up in two hours and without the manual!!! It's not that difficult to set-up, as there aren't that many pieces, it was much easier than putting a knitting machine back together LOL!
After setting it up, I realized it needs a few changes, like new cords: the current ones are all fuzzy and stiff. I will also change the cords on the bottom (the ones that connect the lamms to the treadles. The screws and nuts are missing from the top part of the beater as well.
Of course the biggest change I want (but not necessarily needed) is to change the heddles to texslov! I am used to using them from my table loom days, and I love them! The current ones are wire, and many of them are bent or seem too long for the harnesses. With texsolv, I can colour them and draw the heddles with my fingers. I know they don't scoot along the frames as easily as metal ones, but I still love them. Thankfully, they aren't as expensive as I thought they were going to be. I will get 600 for now.
I gave everything a good wipe down with a damp cloth, and it's all nice and clean once again. One think I am perplexed about is, I set-up for a tabby (pretend weaving of course), when I pushed on the treadle, it raised the harnesses, but they stayed up, until I pushed down on the next treadle, then they stayed up, so on and so forth. Is this a feature of counterbalance? Or are the cords just too stiff, which is preventing the harnesses from lowering? I wonder.
The other thing I am a bit worried about is warping it. I am used to the Ashford method of direct warping (meaning straight from the warping board and through the reed), but somehow it's not going to work with this loom, for starters the loom has to be in front of the board etc. Works wonders with table and RH looms.
I really want to learn a good, easy but effective method. Since I will be warping all alone, I don't want a method where one has to tie bottles of liquid to the warp, or use a warping valet (I just don't have the space for that).
I have heard of the Harrisville tensioning device, and was wondering if perhaps that's the way I should go. Perhaps I need to do some finding out about it. I have the book "Warping all by yorself" by Cay Garrett, her's is a F2B method, but I would prefer to learn the B2F method.
After setting it up, I realized it needs a few changes, like new cords: the current ones are all fuzzy and stiff. I will also change the cords on the bottom (the ones that connect the lamms to the treadles. The screws and nuts are missing from the top part of the beater as well.
Of course the biggest change I want (but not necessarily needed) is to change the heddles to texslov! I am used to using them from my table loom days, and I love them! The current ones are wire, and many of them are bent or seem too long for the harnesses. With texsolv, I can colour them and draw the heddles with my fingers. I know they don't scoot along the frames as easily as metal ones, but I still love them. Thankfully, they aren't as expensive as I thought they were going to be. I will get 600 for now.
I gave everything a good wipe down with a damp cloth, and it's all nice and clean once again. One think I am perplexed about is, I set-up for a tabby (pretend weaving of course), when I pushed on the treadle, it raised the harnesses, but they stayed up, until I pushed down on the next treadle, then they stayed up, so on and so forth. Is this a feature of counterbalance? Or are the cords just too stiff, which is preventing the harnesses from lowering? I wonder.
The other thing I am a bit worried about is warping it. I am used to the Ashford method of direct warping (meaning straight from the warping board and through the reed), but somehow it's not going to work with this loom, for starters the loom has to be in front of the board etc. Works wonders with table and RH looms.
I really want to learn a good, easy but effective method. Since I will be warping all alone, I don't want a method where one has to tie bottles of liquid to the warp, or use a warping valet (I just don't have the space for that).
I have heard of the Harrisville tensioning device, and was wondering if perhaps that's the way I should go. Perhaps I need to do some finding out about it. I have the book "Warping all by yorself" by Cay Garrett, her's is a F2B method, but I would prefer to learn the B2F method.

5 comments:
Cerita, thanks so much for stopping by my blog and leaving your comment. Your method is definitely one to be recommended!
Your loom is lovely! I've never woven on a counterbalance, but I can tell you that I do prefer B2F warping. I learned F2B but had so many warp tension problems that I was motivated to learn the other way. I learned it from Deb Chandler's Learning to Weave. Her book has both methods plus her own "blended" method.
Interweave Press has some free pdf articles on warping too. I don't know if these would be useful to you but they might be worth a look.
Cheers! (From another Ubuntu user :)
Leigh, I have been admiring your work for a long time, and have an RSS feed for your blog :).
I did have the Chandler book, but much prefer a video, as I prefer learning by watching. Any suggestions on a good video?
And yes HURRAY for Ubuntu! Love it!
HI CERITA
I HAVE ONE LOOM EXACT LIKE YOURS AND I BEEN LEARNING BY MY SELF . I START ON 1980.
GOOD LUCK I DO GO TO THIS SITE SOME TIME YOU HAVE FREE PATTERNS.http://www.leclerclooms.com/
I FOUND YOUR BLOG BY CHANCE
Hi Norete,
Oh so wonderful to meet another weaver who has the same loom! I am looking for someone to show me the best method for warping it. What's your method?
Congratulations on your new loom.
Weaving is the only fiber thing that I don't do. So I cannot help you. It all sounds like I would have to learn a 'new language' to be able to weave. LOL
Waiting for pictures of your first work.
^__^
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